Angus Denoon Duncan, Everybody Love Loves the Jhal Muri Express

Angus Denoon Duncan, Everybody Love Loves the Jhal Muri Express

The grub: Calcutta flavour is brought to London in the form of Bengali street food (chaat). Jhal Muri is crunchy, spicy, sweet and sour, thanks to fresh lime juice, cucumber, ginger, onions, tamarind sauce, hard chickpea noodles, puffed rice and fried lentils. Phuchkas, named for the sound they make when bitten, are crunchy wheat flour and semolina puffs, stuffed with mashed potato and mustard oil. Topped with mint water and a touch of tamarind, pop one of these little taste bombs into your mouth for a serious dousing of texture and flavour. Dhoklas, a slice of savoury chickpea flour sponge (from Pooja Bakery in Tooting), are topped with plain yoghurt, hari chutney (chilli, coriander, lime and ginger), date and raisin chutney, fresh coconut and a sprinkling of garam masala.

The vibe: Food is served from either a simple basket-topped pushcart or from the back of a van, decked out in garlands, authentic Bengali signage and fairy lights. Service is friendly and welcoming. Offerings from both cart and van pack a punch, made with only slight deviation from the original recipes.

The story: Nine years ago, former chef Angus Duncan made a random stop over in Calcutta and his love affair with Bengali culture began. He returns several times a year, reinforcing his passion for the food and absorbing the street traders’ techniques. With a burgeoning passion for filmmaking, Streatham-based Angus started the stall (full name Everybody Love Love The Jhal Muri Express) to fund a pilot about the traders. It has since morphed into a film that introduces the Bengalis’ creative way of cooking and eating.

The tab: £3-4 per chaat

Get the lowdown: Often trades with KERB, otherwise mostly found in south London or wherever the wind take him. Locate him by following his Twitter @jhalmuriexpress. Also available for private events.

Seller profile by Lindsay Faller

7 Responses to “THE JHAL MURI EXPRESS (Bengali chaat)”
  1. Nick Webley says:

    Is this the same Angus who was seen guiding Rick Stein to the best eating places in Kolkata in the BBC2 TV series? Greta bloke I was very impressed by his style and knowledge.

  2. Aroop says:

    What is the address of Angus? How can I find Jhalmuri express?

    • London Street Foodie says:

      He doesn’t have a fixed address, I’m afraid. The best thing is to follow him on Twitter to find out where he is…

  3. Prithviraj says:

    He is a treat to watch. He is amazingly quick and he has every little trick of the Calcutta street vendor. I have seen him only on TV but I can tell his stuff must be delicious !!

  4. soma bhattacharyya says:

    I am a bengali from kolkata, living in those foods and miss those as well, please come to cambridge if possible .thanks.good luck.

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  1. […] With thanks to Lindsay Faller for chatting to him again and writing up the profile which is here. […]

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